The Brooklyn Wine & Tapas is one of those rare Gold Coast restaurants that feels both deeply local and quietly exceptional. A little-known Varsity Lakes gem, it has become the backdrop to countless special occasions, spontaneous knock-off drinks, and lavish dinner parties over the years. I discovered it about 4 years ago and have been returning frequently ever since. A particular favourite of my mum’s, it has become something of a guaranteed crowd pleaser within our family.
As the name suggests, their specialty is small bites, with bold flavours. With a beautiful, seasonal menu, the chef keeps the quality high, the flavours unique and the regulars returning. Not leaning overly into any particular cuisine, the menu offers both adventurous and homely flavours to suit any palate. From ceviche’s that are bright and fresh, to hearty, charred skewers that satisfy the deepest of hungers.
The interior is sultry and inviting, with a modern art deco feel to it, that leans into the romantic, intentionality of the menu. The staff lean into the venue’s old-world charm too, newsboy caps and all, adding to the sense that Brooklyn exists slightly outside the pace of the modern Gold Coast. A shaker can be heard at all times with drinks flowing, as can only be expected in a local wine bar. It has the bustle and laughter of a room filled with people who come for the comfort, quality and familiarity.
Brooklyn feels at its best around 7pm, once darkness settles in and the late-night diners begin filtering through the door. I almost always find myself tucked into the semi-private alcove near the front window, martini or glass of wine in hand, watching strangers wander past while quietly people-watching the room behind me. There’s something distinctly un-Gold Coast about it in the best possible way. It isn’t driven by trends or theatrics, but by warmth, familiarity, and a kind of timeless charm that makes people return again and again. The crowd is as eclectic as the owner and the room itself, business types mix effortlessly with younger couples on date night, without any sense of pretence, just an effortless sense of occasion.
Now to the food, the absolute stars are in my opinion their seafood plates. Their rotating variation of Wild Canadian Scallops in the shell never miss, offering sweet, pillowy soft scallops with whatever texturally interesting and flavourful combination the chef comes up with. One variation to look out for is their scallop on cauliflower puree, topped with caramelised chorizo and lemon pearls, bursting with warmth and spice, softened by rich sweetness and bright acidity. Each new change I’m sad to see the old variation go and thrilled to welcome another tantalising variation.
Their current Ceviche variation has my heart, beautifully, finely cubed pink snapper, with peach, jalapeños and Spanish onion, topped with mango gel and avocado puree. All beautifully layered on a crispy rice paper cracker, with a warning to not eat the stones on the serving plate. It’s a perfect balance of freshness, richness, spice and acidity, offering the elevated seafood that Gold Coast diners want and expect. This is one plate I order multiples of, and I suggest you do too.
Now sides are something that I don’t often pay attention to, as aren’t we all here for the main attraction. However, I would be failing myself and my readers by not showcasing the Brooklyn’s iconic and mouth-watering Dutch Cream Potatoes. This unassuming bowl of hearty carbs is well worth adding to your order, or taking home if your eyes get bigger than your stomach. Sliced, Lyonnaise potatoes, packed with a deep flavour, are piled high and topped with truffle brown butter and smoked mascarpone. This dish doubles down on depth and richness, making it the perfect plate to share (or not).
It’s incredible how many major events I have connected with this restaurant, my Mum’s 60th, one of my favourite first dates (inevitably unsuccessful), and my workplace’s inaugural annual dinner party. Some restaurants become part of the backdrop of your life without you realising it at first. Then one day, you notice how many memories are tied to a particular table, cocktail, or corner of the room. Their various alcoves offer space to unwind with friends, or solo sipping on an ice-cold martini. While their private dining room The Library literally rolls the red carpet out for you to celebrate any and every occasion.
You’ll find the vibrant owner Leisa at the door every evening, pouring her heart and soul into this beautiful restaurant. We share a smile and small talk whenever I visit, she asks after my parents and how work is going, and I fawn over the menu. She never seems too busy for a genuine recommendation or a quiet conversation about the latest drink special. She is someone who invests into the community through connection and of course, culinary masterpieces.
This is the beauty of finding and loving your local, it becomes home to important memories, and familiar territory when you are seeking comfort. It’s the place you drive past and momentarily reminisce, bringing a smile to your face. Or bump into the owner strolling the produce section of the grocery store. The Brooklyn has secured itself as an institution, with the hallmarks of a true Gold Coast hotspot, that offers the slow intentional pace you can’t often find in the city centre.
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In a world overflowing with noise and novelty, choosing well has become an act of care. The Edit exists to make that choice effortless – thoughtful recommendations, no algorithms, no overwhelm.