I’ve been to Italy, and walking in, through the dark and narrow bar, to the main dining room, was like stepping into a local bàcari. Leather booths, colourful accents and art decals lining the wall spelled a thoughtful design that still made you feel warm and welcome. The place was absolutely packed for lunch, from businessmen discussing presumably business over a bread and dip, to mums and bubs lavishing the slow life. Clearly I was about to be inducted into the Fugazzi Fan Club.
A hidden highlight for me when dining out solo, is how the wait staff treat me, and everyone I spoke to embodies the warmth of the place. My waitress clearly understood what I was looking for, my signature “order one of everything”, and suggested I order the snacks and bites à la carte rather than the tasting menu. This sort of service is what elevates the experience. Since it was lunch time, I opted for a liquid entrée in the form of a limoncello spritz, which was a nice way to cool down before diving into my meal.
It would be selfish of me to omit any detail of the dishes I ate from this article, so allow me to give you the full Fugazzi lowdown. Starting with the tuna cracker, served on a crispy seaweed cracker, the tuna was melt in your mouth, elevated by the citrus cream that did its job as a vessel without overpowering the fresh fish. Finished with a Davidson Plum crumb on top, that had a fun Tajin quality to it.
A staple “must try” wherever I go, I opted for the wagyu tartare, served on a crispy corn chip. The bonito cream added the saltiness the dish thrives on in a unique and subtle way, while the cured egg rounded the hard edges of the dish. The finely diced cubes of premium meat, generously piled on the chip, held their own and were certainly the highlight of the dish.
Now forgive me for picking up this phrase from a coworker, but it’s the only way to describe this next dish. The Bass Strait wood fired scallop was off its head! The Salumi XO had a kick to it that really brought you into the moment, with nice chewy, caramelised pieces to give it some character. The burnt butter hollandaise was the star, smooth and silky, with a rich flavour that perfectly balanced the bite.
It wouldn’t be a Laura restaurant without an Australian, Italian fusion. The ‘Roman Vegemite’ toast was one heck of a creation. If my tastebuds served me right, the bread was vegemite infused, topped with a healthy anchovy fillet, a generous dollop of butter and tiny wedges of lemon. Honestly, you’d think the level of salinity would be this dish’s undoing, but the butter and lemon bring it all back down and make this a balanced, very savoury bite.
Next is a dish that I would go back for time and time again, and if I didn’t have writing this article in mind while dining, I would have had seconds and thirds and not tried anything else, but then where would we be? The veal carpaccio was an elevated take on an Italian classic, done to perfection without being too far from the original. The smoked crème fraiche gave the dish a warm, richness, while the burnt honey lightly clung to the meat with its bittersweet tendrils. The crispy onions on top added the signature crunch of a true carpaccio. Each thin slice of veal was substantial enough to hold its structure, carrying every ingredient without tearing, allowing you to savour each element fully – and making every bite, right down to the last, heaven.
Finally for our savoury segment, the Spencer Gulf Kingfish crudo with genuine melt-in-your-mouth fish was a delight. The herbed oil was light, the wasabi cream added the signature sweetness of wasabi and horseradish without the nose burning bite and the pieces of pickled apple added the textural contrast and brightness to a perfectly fresh dish.
In need of a burst of freshness before being thrust back out into the heat, I finished with the whipped cheesecake. After watching the mum and daughter pair across from me receive their dessert and the joy and awe they both experienced, adding this light dessert to my tab was the only way to finish. The cheesecake was light and creamy, with the slight tang of cream cheese, and sat on a fine but still crunchy biscuit “base”. A generous scoop of ice cold strawberry sorbet on top was a welcome addition that added a summer flare to this dessert.
From chatting to a pair of restauranteurs at the table next to me, who were all too eager to share their own restaurant recommendations with me, to tasting masterful versions of some of my favourite foods, Fugazzi was a culinary highlight! This is casual, fine dining done right, where there is a clear theme and inspiration behind every plate. It feels accessible but adventurous at the same time, which I love because great food should be accessible to all. This is a meal worth sitting with for hours, and please don’t just save it for a special occasion, Fugazzi is the occasion!
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