In my quest towards Michelin, I found myself at LVN at Bird in Hand. Dining here was a “look no further” choice, set within one of my all-time favourite wine estates. This chef’s selection degustation was a journey down unexplored alleyways for me, but one that I had no choice but to follow.
Set within the Adelaide Hills, LVN feels deliberately removed from the pace of the city. The drive in sets the tone – winding roads, sprawling vines, and a quiet sense of escaping the world around you. The space itself reflects that same intention: intimate without feeling enclosed, refined but not rigid. From the moment you’re seated, there’s a subtle shift in pace – one that signals this won’t be a meal you move through quickly, but one you’re expected to sit with. Served by none other than the son of the chief winemaker, the team did not hold back on making this an unforgettable experience for me. Overlooking the kitchen at the chef’s table, I was in constant awe of the finesse and care that goes into each detail on each plate.
There’s a certain weight that comes with choosing a place like LVN. Not pressure, but expectation. The kind that builds quietly, shaped by reputation, setting, and the understanding that this isn’t simply somewhere you stop for lunch. It’s a commitment of time, attention, and trust. Walking in, I was aware of that – aware that this was a meal I would need to meet halfway.
I was left in the dark, with no menu or tasting note to guide me, other than those offered by the Maître d’ for my wine pairing. Each plate became a moment of surprise and joy – at times even a sense of trepidation when I was faced with my first oyster. But this was not the moment to be hesitant, this was the perfect place to let myself be guided through quality, locally sourced produce, executed flawlessly.
This three-hour journey, through 14 plates, is too much to put into writing, so I’ll showcase the highlights – the plates that shouted for attention and those that spoke quietly but stayed with me. Jacob Davey’s take on a crispy rice and tuna, the Ama Ebi Prawn on Crispy Rice Koji, was a morsel of pure umami. Intensely savoury, with a hint of ocean salinity, it was an elevated take on the viral favourite. Of course the Oyster, fresh and cold, sitting beneath a blanket of Fennel Flower Snow and a hint of Rhubarb. Scorched for only a few seconds over the open fire, which makes this, dare I say, an ideal bite for the texturally hesitant.
Those beginning bites, paired beautifully with a crisp glass of sparkling Pinot Noir, set my standards high – as if they weren’t already – and settled me into the rhythm of the meal. The pacing felt just as considered as the plates themselves. The break between courses allowed me to observe the chefs’ precision in placing even the smallest of garnishes, tweezers working meticulously to ensure quality, consistency, and intention. Nothing rushed, but never a sense of waiting either. Courses arrived with a natural flow, each one giving way to the next without breaking the experience.
If you’ve read any of my other articles, it will come as no surprise how much I enjoy a raw plate. So the Tuna, prepared from the side belly, was an obvious choice on this highlight reel. The expertly chosen, fatty cut of fish melted in my mouth, just long enough to savour the taste but leave me wanting more. Paired with Geraldton Wax, the Australian ingredients gave a kefir lime quality that elevated the flavour of the fish. As we started to explore more substantial plates, forever the seafood fiend, I was a fan of the crispy skin Murray Cod, prepared over the woodfired rack, taking on its charred smokiness. The white fish flaked away as I cut into it, cooked to perfection, and paired with a bitter, tart, charred wedge of lemon.
Chef Davey has already proven he enjoys a native take on global classics, and his Quail, stuffed with Mousseline with a fried quail leg “lollipop” on the side was no exception. A generous piece of juicy, rich and gamey Quail, with light and airy chicken Mousseline hidden under the skin, this was classic, flavourful and simply done well. Another simple addition to the main course, was the house-made Croissant. Served with garden butter, packed full of herbs harvested from the garden just outside. Like taking a mouthful of rich butter, this flaky pastry was a beautiful palate cleanser and reset before the LVN journey continued.
Now let us not glance over the dessert course, because the LVN team absolutely did not take this final curtain lightly. A Mango and Marigold Sorbet, served in a mango skin was a hit of bright freshness. Not an ice crystal in sight, the sorbet was smooth and light, but absolutely loaded with flavour. The candle and ‘Happy Birthday’ message also solidified that this meal wasn’t simply about the food but the experience too. Finally a selection of dessert bites, with a standout star that absolutely knocked my socks off: the Sheoak soft caramel was off its head! Bitter and earthy, with enough sweetness to tell you you were eating something sweet, but still giving all the spotlight to the Sheoak. It was one hell of a way to end a meal!
By this point, the experience had moved beyond the plate. What began as a pursuit – a step in my “quest towards Michelin” – had quietly shifted into something more personal. The kind of meal that doesn’t just meet expectations, but reframes them entirely. I left with not only the experience, but a beautiful bottle of their 2022 Nest Egg Syrah, which I learned was the first bottle of wine my waiter bottled with his mum. It shows the memories that carry through food and dining, and the heart that goes into giving people these moments of joy.
Towards the end of my meal, a small glisten appeared in my eye, overcome with a wave of gratitude and inspiration at the feast and craftsmanship I was able to bear witness to. It may seem an unusual place to feel emotional in, but I believe it is an outward expression of a deep sense of appreciation – one that I’m happy never to lose.
A refined, immersive degustation set in the Adelaide Hills, where fire, precision, and local produce come together in quiet harmony. LVN at Bird in Hand is fine dining that asks for your trust — and rewards it in every course.
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